Traditional Japanese dress is referred to as kimono (meaning ‘clothing’). During the Edo period the basic item of clothing for both men and women was the kosode (meaning ‘short sleeves’), a loose robe crossed over at the front that had originated as an undergarment in the more elaborate styles of earlier centuries.

Glamorous actors and courtesans set fashion trends, and changing fashions were publicised in affordable woodblock prints. In the 18th century however, the ruling shogunate imposed strict regulations on the fabrics and colours that people could wear according to their rank, in order to maintain social distinctions. As a result, a new sensibility of restrained patterns and colours developed.

People compensated for this by wearing elaborate hairstyles, accessories and inner garments. For example, the waist sash (obi) developed into a wide, stiff band, several metres long, and was tied in elaborate ways. This was often richly decorated with woven patterns or embroidery. The loose haori jacket, tied with two strings at the chest, became popular for men. From the 17th century onwards, silk and cotton replaced animal skin in the two-part socks (tabi), which were normally of dark colour, but white with formal dress.